Discussions

Hi Robert, As you’ve discovered the hard way, soap recipes where polyunsaturated fats predominate make poor soaps. This is for two reasons: The soap produced is soft/mushy, has an unpleasant greasy feeling on the skin, and doesn’t lather well. Because all home made soaps are superfatted (formulated with excess oil that is not saponified), combined with the fact that polyunsaturated fats are the most prone to oxidation, over time the excess fats in these soaps will go rancid, making them smell terrible. Besides reading up on soap making, the best suggestion I can give you is that when you’re formulating a recipe on soapcalc.net you should shoot for an overall INS value of about 160. By doing so, you more or less guarantee you’ll get a good balance of saturated/monounsaturated/polyunsaturated fats. Higher is OK, though the higher you go the “harsher” the soap will be, but you don’t want to go too much lower. By way of illustration, your 95% canola/5% castor recipe gives an INS of 58, which is NOT good. When you read #2 above, you may be tempted to change the superfatting percentage on your recipe to zero. Do not do this. The SAP values used to calculate the lye required for a recipe are based on “typical” values for a fat, but the actual SAP values for the particular fats we have on hand are almost certain to vary somewhat. By superfatting we guard against the case where the actual SAP values of our fats are lower than what is typical, which would otherwise result in a soap containing excess (unreacted) lye, which is undesirable for obvious reasons. In a well-formulated recipe, the unsaponified fats that remain in the finished soap will almost never be a problem. The worst that usually happens is that over an extended period of time the bars may develop what is commonly known as the Dreaded Orange Spots (DOS), a sign that the some of the excess fat has oxidized. I hope this helps!

Hi @kismet, It’s funny that you should bring up chest carry. I’d been looking for something like the HPG kit bags, just for hiking, but hadn’t found anything I liked, and hadn’t even thought about it as an option for concealed carry. These HPG kit bags, though, look brilliant. Thanks for suggesting them! After doing some research, I think the Original Kit Bag (v2) is the one for me. Here’s my reasoning: I want a bag I can use for concealed carry, and for carrying a few smaller items I’d like to have more accessible; e.g. phone, wallet, multitool, flashlight, pen/pad, etc. According to info I found on the site, the small footprint bags (6″x8.5″) are only just big enough to hold a G19, and not much else, without turning the bag into a “brick” that can ride uncomfortably on the chest, and is hard to put things into and take things out of. The large footprint bags (7.5″x11.5″) are big enough to hold a full size gun, and all else being equal, that’s what I’d rather carry. The only reason I was planning to carry the G19 was because it’s the largest gun I have that’s still fairly easily concealable at the waist. The Recon and Runner’s bags, at 1″ depth, are too thin for how I want to use the bag. A gun larger than a subcompact will print, and there’s nowhere to put much else without overstuffing the bag. I don’t need or want PALS on the front (too “tactical” looking, and I won’t use it), so of the thicker bags, that leaves just the Original (v2). Also, FWIW, I wrote customer service to ask for an ETA on when the color I want would be back in stock, and I heard back from them in under an hour (thanks Kevin!). It’ll be back in stock tomorrow, so I’m going to put an order in then, and if anyone’s interested, I’ll post a review here after I have a chance to try it out. One last thing… HPG also offers a 5% discount to veterans, law enforcement, first responders, and SAR personnel. Later, Chris


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Concealed carry while wearing a backpack?
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Hi Robert, As you’ve discovered the hard way, soap recipes where polyunsaturated fats predominate make poor soaps. This is for two reasons: The soap produced is soft/mushy, has an unpleasant greasy feeling on the skin, and doesn’t lather well. Because all home made soaps are superfatted (formulated with excess oil that is not saponified), combined with the fact that polyunsaturated fats are the most prone to oxidation, over time the excess fats in these soaps will go rancid, making them smell terrible. Besides reading up on soap making, the best suggestion I can give you is that when you’re formulating a recipe on soapcalc.net you should shoot for an overall INS value of about 160. By doing so, you more or less guarantee you’ll get a good balance of saturated/monounsaturated/polyunsaturated fats. Higher is OK, though the higher you go the “harsher” the soap will be, but you don’t want to go too much lower. By way of illustration, your 95% canola/5% castor recipe gives an INS of 58, which is NOT good. When you read #2 above, you may be tempted to change the superfatting percentage on your recipe to zero. Do not do this. The SAP values used to calculate the lye required for a recipe are based on “typical” values for a fat, but the actual SAP values for the particular fats we have on hand are almost certain to vary somewhat. By superfatting we guard against the case where the actual SAP values of our fats are lower than what is typical, which would otherwise result in a soap containing excess (unreacted) lye, which is undesirable for obvious reasons. In a well-formulated recipe, the unsaponified fats that remain in the finished soap will almost never be a problem. The worst that usually happens is that over an extended period of time the bars may develop what is commonly known as the Dreaded Orange Spots (DOS), a sign that the some of the excess fat has oxidized. I hope this helps!

Hi @kismet, It’s funny that you should bring up chest carry. I’d been looking for something like the HPG kit bags, just for hiking, but hadn’t found anything I liked, and hadn’t even thought about it as an option for concealed carry. These HPG kit bags, though, look brilliant. Thanks for suggesting them! After doing some research, I think the Original Kit Bag (v2) is the one for me. Here’s my reasoning: I want a bag I can use for concealed carry, and for carrying a few smaller items I’d like to have more accessible; e.g. phone, wallet, multitool, flashlight, pen/pad, etc. According to info I found on the site, the small footprint bags (6″x8.5″) are only just big enough to hold a G19, and not much else, without turning the bag into a “brick” that can ride uncomfortably on the chest, and is hard to put things into and take things out of. The large footprint bags (7.5″x11.5″) are big enough to hold a full size gun, and all else being equal, that’s what I’d rather carry. The only reason I was planning to carry the G19 was because it’s the largest gun I have that’s still fairly easily concealable at the waist. The Recon and Runner’s bags, at 1″ depth, are too thin for how I want to use the bag. A gun larger than a subcompact will print, and there’s nowhere to put much else without overstuffing the bag. I don’t need or want PALS on the front (too “tactical” looking, and I won’t use it), so of the thicker bags, that leaves just the Original (v2). Also, FWIW, I wrote customer service to ask for an ETA on when the color I want would be back in stock, and I heard back from them in under an hour (thanks Kevin!). It’ll be back in stock tomorrow, so I’m going to put an order in then, and if anyone’s interested, I’ll post a review here after I have a chance to try it out. One last thing… HPG also offers a 5% discount to veterans, law enforcement, first responders, and SAR personnel. Later, Chris


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